Saw chain jargon
"Driver" - Also known as a "drive link", the part of the chain that fits down in the bar and is driven by the sprocket.
"Gauge" - The thickness of the drive link on the chain -
and the width of the groove in the guide bar -
usually .050", .058", or .063" thick.
"Pitch" - The distance in inches between any three consecutive
rivets on the chain, divided by two.
The most
common are 3/8" and .325". Be aware that there are two types of chain that
are both 3/8" pitch,
one is the
"standard" type generally used on saws 55 cc and up, then other has the same
pitch but is called
"low
profile" and is used on smaller saws - up to 45 cc or so.
"Full complement" - Also known as "full comp" or "standard sequence" - has one space between each cutting tooth.
"Semi skip" - Chain alternates one space/two spaces between each cutting tooth.
"Full skip" - Chain has two spaces between each cutting tooth; half the cutting teeth as regular "full complement".
"Round ground" - The cutting teeth are made with a rounded cutting edge for sharpening with a round file.
"Square ground" - The cutting teeth are made with a squared cutting edge which require a special 'square file' to sharpen.
"Low profile" - Generally referring to 3/8" pitch chain
used on smaller saws, has the same pitch of 'regular' 3/8" chain
popular on large saws, but has a smaller/lower cutting tooth .
Saw chain F.A.Q.
How tight should the chain be?
There isn't an easy answer to this, but a little common sense can go a long way.
You don't want it dangling off the
bottom of the bar, as this increases the wear on both the bar and the chain, and also
increases the possibility that it will
come off. You don't want it super tight, because it will be putting unnecessary
stress on the sprocket, bar, and chain.
Rotate the chain a time or two on the bar to take up any slack at the sprocket, and
tighten the chain 'snug' to the bar.
Will a chain stretch?
Yes, a new chain will stretch somewhat initially and need to be retightened after a few
cuts.
After the inital stretching, the chain will stretch less and less, and usually only need
tightened every so often.
On occasion, after much use, a chain will stretch enough that the chain tensioner will be
unable to tighten the chain all
the way. In this case, one drive link can be taken out of the chain to allow its
continued use.
What do I need to know to purchase a chain for my saw?
You should know the pitch and gauge of the chain and the number of drivers in the
chain.
To save remembering all the numbers, the easiest way to purchase the correct new chain at
your local saw shop is
to take an old chain, that is known to fit the saw, in with you.
Why the different types of spacing (such as skip chain)?
Skip chains do well in certain cutting situations such as soft wood.
Some people just have a personal usage preference of one type over another.
And as we often hear, the more teeth there are on the chain, the more one has to sharpen!
Why the different types of cutting teeth?
The original design for modern saw chain was with the round ground cutter.
Round ground chain is still the most popular as it is easily sharpened with a common round
file.
Many "pro" customers we have prefer the square ground chain as they say it cuts
better/faster.
Why isn't skip/square ground chain available for my smaller saw?
Generally, 3/8" low profile and .325" chain is only available in round ground,
standard sequence,
which really does cut just fine if it is properly sharpened.
Regular 3/8" chain is commonly used on larger saws and therefore is available in
several configurations to suit
the varied needs of the professional user.